Archive for the 'Vacationing in Jamaica' Category

Traditional Boat Building

If we were looking for a small fishing boat, most of us would check Craigslist or the local marine store. Not so here in rural Robins Bay! Justice of the Peace Mr. Ben Smith (known hereabouts as Uncle Ben) and two friends traveled several miles down the coast where they felled a 65 foot silk cotton (Ceiba) tree, cut it into two sections, then roughly hollowed it out for transport back to Ben’s yard. Over the last few months, they have cut, axed, hoed, hatcheted, adged, and shaped the logs into two boats, 16 and 12 feet long respectively, which will be sealed with mastic and brightly painted. Launching is still weeks away but Uncle Ben knows he wants to christen his boat “Give Thanks;” his neighbor Clarke plans to name his 12 footer “Moby Dick.”

The Tradition of Taino Canoe Building

What Ben and Clarke are accomplishing is in the authentic Taino tradition of canoe building. The Taino Indians thrived in the Caribbean until they were challenged by the Caribs in the 1300s, then by the Spanish in the late 1400s. Ceiba trees make excellent canoes: the wood is light, the trunks straight and massive. Columbus was known to be impressed by the size and sophistication of the Taino canoes. The photo here does not do justice to the immensity of Ben and Clarke’s work!

When asked which fish he likes to catch, Uncle Ben once quipped “The one that sells the most!” Most local fishermen set fish pots or use hand lines to catch butterfish, parrotfish, and doctorfish though snapper, spiny lobster, and yellow-fin tuna bring a better price from the area higgler. When you come to Green Castle Estate, you might just see Ben and Clarke’s boats at sea. When they’re back on shore, check out their fine craftsmanship.

About 40 minutes from Green Castle Estate, there’s a British fellow who’s been researching the nesting of Hawksbill Turtles. Working in cooperation with Jamaica’s environmental planning agency, “Turtle Mel” has been monitoring and assisting nestlings as they emerge from their sandy incubation and make their way to the Caribbean Sea. A small group of us from Green Castle had the privilege of participating in this amazing natural phenomenon. And I can tell you, baby turtles are adorable!

Who wouldn’t be wide-eyed as Turtle Mel dug into the damp sand with his hands and pulled out multitudes of 3” Hawksbill Turtle nestlings! We dutifully counted each one, then lined them up—all 89 of them—before they began pushing along with their small flippers toward the surf 30 feet away. Once at water’s edge, the gentle waves captured each one, gave them a tumble or two, before launching them seaward. We learned they would survive their watery debut only if they raised their heads for a gulp of air.

This hatching was very unexpected at this time of year.  Female Hawksbills typically begin laying in late March or April which puts hatching 60-70 days later depending on weather.  The majority of the laying occurs in June and July so most nestlings emerge in August and September, tapering off into October–that is, if they aren’t disrupted by hurricane activity. The nest we witnessed was laid in November, having survived the cooler weather and storms of late December. Despite the aberrant timing of this nest, mortality was surprisingly low—only 4 were dead plus Mel chose to put 4 “premies” back into the nest for another day or so.

Sea turtle researchers have learned that nestling mortality can be radically reduced by carefully timing the hatch (shortly before sunset limits exposure to herons and frigatebirds) and protecting young turtles from predation by land crabs. Mel’s carefully documented successes are being shared with island agencies charged with protection of this endangered species. We thank Mel for sharing this remarkable event with Green Castle guests.

My attention lazily drifts from my book to gaze at the passing clouds. One here, one there, no sign of rain, no worries… And then I begin to think about all the ways the skies over Green Castle have absorbed my attention over time.

There are the deep blue skies that reflect back into the waters, creating a sea green-sea blue color that provokes the unoriginal, “Ah, this is the Caribbean.” From my chair on the veranda, I look around to see if anyone is watching as, admittedly, I can stare seaward for hours.

There are the clouds that travel with purpose toward the hills of the Blue Mountains, then congregate around its peaks. From far away, I can hear the deep crash of thunder rolling, rumbling, reverberating… Within an hour, the skies are clear from horizon to horizon.

There are the dark clouds that gather far out at sea that foretell rain. Locals aptly call this “blaack up.” More often than not, these clouds dissipate before they reach our coastline, but when they bring rain, it’s wonderful—I revel in the sudden coolness and the din of rejoicing frogs.

Then there are the night skies. At dusk, the rustling palms are silhouetted against the sky, losing all color but not their ragged shape, a shape that always reminds me I’m in the tropics. As the night skies darken, familiar stars in unfamiliar places draw my attention. Over the Estate House, the rising moon marks the sky, creating deep shadows that cross the threshold of the open bedroom doors. I drift into a restful slumber.

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The Green Castle Estate Bird List is now at 119!

Greencastle Bird Checklist

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On December 9, BirdLife Jamaica president John Fletcher guided 3 Green Castle Estate visitors to Ecclesdown Road in Portland Parish’s John Crow Mountains. The excursion, arranged by Green Castle Estate manager Angie Dickson, was designed to see some of the higher-altitude Jamaican endemics, birds not usually found on the Estate.

Only a 2-hour drive from Green Castle on Jamaica’s coastal highway, Ecclesdown Road winds high above Long Bay. Here, along a single lane little-traveled road, is lush habitat that marks the eastern edge of Blue Mountains-John Crow Mountains National Park. It’s a spot where Rufous-throated Solitaire was conspicuous by its distinctive call, the whirring hum of Black-billed Streamertail tail feathers were ubiquitous, and the raucous squawking of Black-billed and Yellow-billed Parrots flying across the valley below sometimes drowned out both of the above. Other mountain specialties found that day were Ring-tailed Pigeon, Jamaican Crow, Blue Mountain Vireo, and Jamaican Pewee. Although, Jamaican Blackbird and Crested Quail-Dove remained elusive, the excursion has to be counted a success–15 Jamaican and 3 Caribbean endemics.

Portland Parish makes for an excellent day trip from Green Castle. Later in the day when the birding slows down, you could stop by scenic Reach Falls near Manchioneal or have a leisurely lunch along the beachfront at Long Bay. The crafts market in Port Antonio may also be worth a stop on your way back to Green Castle Estate.

Publication of a new field guide to a country’s birds is always a significant event and even more so if the book adds substantially to the general knowledge of an area’s birdlife. Such is the case with the new A Photographic Guide to the Birds of Jamaica (2009, Christopher Helm) by Dr. Ann Haynes-Sutton et al. This 300 page, pocket-sized guide is well printed and contains truly excellent color photos on almost every page.

Technically, the new guide is an update to Sutton and Downer’s 1990 Jamaica book, but what an update! The text and photos are entirely new and there are now range maps to accompany each of the species. Endemics are allotted more detailed textual treatment and often 3 or 4 excellent photos.

The opening chapters provide valuable information about Jamaica’s habitats, conservation challenges, origins of the Jamaican avifauna, and a history of Jamaican ornithology. That all of this information could be contained in a book sized for easy use in the field, and one so beautifully produced, is a real marvel. Of course, many birders prefer painted bird plates to photographs, as painted plates facilitate side-by-side comparison of similar species. Although that’s generally true, users will find that the quality and quantity of photos in this book are more than sufficient for identification of Jamaica’s birds. This is a must-have guide for birders visiting our island.

As we spend more time birding Green Castle Estate, our recognition of its importance as a birding destination grows. Certainly the fact that 118 species have been identified on the grounds is impressive—we know of no other property in Jamaica that can approach this total. Naturally, an extensive checklist is bound to include many species that are only rarely recorded.

So realistically, what could you hope to see? Here, too, Green Castle Estate shines. Though too low for some Jamaican mountain specialties, Green Castle’s varied habitats and extensive woods shelter most of the lowland endemics.

Case in point: On Sunday morning, December 6, two visitors birded a portion of the Waterfall Trail. This was no early dawn walk—they didn’t start down the trail from the Estate House until 8 a.m.  In 40 minutes, they saw15 endemics: Jamaican Woodpecker, Tody, Euphonia, Becard, Lizard-cuckoo, Mango, Elaenia, Vireo, and Spindalis, White-chinned Thrush, Orangequit, Yellow-shouldered Grassquit, Sad and Rufous-tailed flycatchers, and Streamertail. They also had 3 Caribbean endemics and 5 species of warblers.

To see so many of Jamaica’s specialty birds with so little effort is quite remarkable. Of course, every birding experience is different, so there are no guarantees that all guests will have such good fortune. But it illustrates that the birds are here and waiting to be found!

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From my desk I have an unobstructed view of a snowy Mississippi river.  No eagles today, but the chickadees seem pleased with the sunflower seeds, and the mallards are keeping close to the dock.  Another day in Wisconsin,  I have Green Castle, Jamaica on my mind.  Let’s face it, winter is long, cold, and somewhat dreary.  It is exciting to think that I can get on a plane in my winter jacket and land in Montego Bay  and instantly walk into the green, lush tropical sunshine.  I am making my departure plans.  December 22nd, we head south, and not a moment too soon.

For the rest of you, what are you waiting for?  There isn’t a speck of snow in Jamaica.  It did rain a little this morning in Robins Bay.  But the sun came out leaving blue skies against the green hills and blue Caribbean Sea.   There are direct flights to Jamaica from major airports all over the US.  From the Midwest it is a reasonable 4 hour flight and you are guaranteed warm weather.

If you know you need a winter break, Jamaica is an excellent choice.  The winter weather is fabulous, food is delicious, people are friendly and the music and culture give you a sense that you have really been somewhere.  Jamaica is also beautiful.   Lots of coastline with mountains in the middle.  The highest peak in the Blue Mountains is over 7,000 feet offering dramatic views along the north coast.

My favorite type of Jamaican vacation is when you get off the beaten track, slow down, have a Red Stripe and relax.  Of course, Green Castle is my favorite place to vacation, www.gcjamaica.com.  For us, vacation has to be fun for the kids as well as the adults.  The less developed North Coast in St. Mary offers authentic activities without the crowds.  Fish lunch and snorkeling at Jacks Bay Beach, rafting on the Rio Grande, hiking to Kwaame falls, or a day by the pool at the Green Castle Estate House.  Not only are these activities fun and inexpensive, but you get to meet real Jamaicans without the hassle of the bigger resort areas.

I’m sure there isn’t any snow in Jamaica today.  As a matter of fact, it is currently 82 degrees, the weather looks fine.  I’m counting down to the 22nd.

http://www.gcjamaica.com

Of all the neotropical migrants, none is more conspicuous or common than the American Redstart, known locally as the “Butterfly Bird.”  It’s not difficult to understand why Jamaicans call them this as Redstarts habitually flare wing and tail feathers while foraging, briefly giving the appearance of large, colorful butterflies.

This tiny, hyperactive warbler is difficult to overlook as it moves among pimento and palms, gleaning insects from beneath leaves or snatching them in midair. Adult males are jet black, stark white, with brilliant orange accents. Females and first year males sport more muted tones of brown and yellow.

Our northern neighbors think of Redstarts and other warblers as “their” birds, American species that just happen to spend a bit of time vacationing in the tropics. We Jamaicans know the truth, though—these are our birds! It’s just as valid to think of American Redstarts and their relatives as tropical species that travel for a few short months—less than half the year—to northern climes before returning home. We at Green Castle Estate are happy to welcome the Butterfly Bird and other migrants back home again.

Fall on the north coast of Jamaica brings relief from summer’s heat and the onset of welcome rains. It also signals the beginning of the most exciting time for birding on Green Castle Estate, the time when North American migrants arrive. Suddenly, out of the doldrums of summer, birding is exciting again. Any bush or tree or patch of grass or marsh could hold a surprise.

This fall has been no exception. An American Redstart seen September 12^th signaled the beginning of the rush. Then, in order of appearance, came: Palm, Prairie, Cape May, Black-and-white, and Northern Parula warblers, Ovenbird, Northern Waterthrush, Black-throated Blue and Worm-eating warblers, and Common Yellowthroat.

It wasn’t until November 9^th that the best warbler of the fall appeared–a Blackpoll Warbler, a rare transient on the island, found near Fisherman’s Beach. The Blackpoll was Green Castle Estate’s 12^th migrant warbler species of the fall.

However, the best bird of the year, so far, has been an immature Blue Grosbeak seen near Jack’s Bay Beach October 11. This was the first sighting of Blue Grosbeak in Jamaica for 3 years, an indication of the rarity of this vagrant.

Shorebirds and raptors also visit the Estate on their journeys south. A Merlin and a Peregrine Falcon put in an appearance, as did Solitary, Least, and Semipalmated sandpipers and a Lesser Yellowlegs.

Fall is a fascinating season here at Green Castle Estate, and a birder is irresistibly drawn afield early in the morning. The question that lures us is always the same: what’s the next surprise?